The 2020 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese is discreet and remarkably coolish on the dense and lemon-scented nose compared to Zeltingen and Bernkastel. White peach and nectarine aromas intertwined with coolish broken slate aromas make this a savory and irresistible Auslese, even though, or exactly because of it, this is so discreet and only subversively erotic on the nose. The palate then reveals stunning lightness and finesse based on a filigreed structure and highly refined and zesty acidity. This is almost weightless, but it has a sweet core that materializes the fruit, whereas in the transcendental Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, it’s more of an idea. 7% stated alcohol. Natural cork.